There was no group singing involved:
The University of Minnesota wrapped up on Tuesday a four-day Dylan Symposium—which, being one of two University of Minnesota MFA representatives, I do believe I am obligated to record here. There is also that small matter of Dylan perhaps being the most well-known Minnesotan (aside from Garrison Keillor and Jesse "The Body" Ventura, probably) in the world—and the most well-known Minnesotan writer, as well.
The Symposium—in conjunction with the traveling museum exhibit called Bob Dylan's American Journey, 1956-1966—is called "Highway 61 Revisited: Dylan's Road from Minnesota to the World." Part of this symposium (the term "symposium" means "drinking party" in Greek; my partner-in-crime—fiction writer extraordinaire and fellow Dylanite, Ethan—to this symposium celebrated this fact by sneaking fat cans of cheap beer into a showing of Masked & Anonymous at the museum), and the major attraction for me was a bus tour to Hibbing, Minnesota, birthplace of Robert A. Zimmerman/Dylan.
Hibbing's isolation and size—at 16,509 people, it's approximately 35.656587473002 times my town's size—made me homesick. It was like taking a bus tour of the town near where I grew up to which my friends and I would travel to get our kicks—like watching those moving picture shows.
Once we got to Hibbing, we—Ethan and I—quickly found that we'd be on a tour that would have less to do with Bob and more to do with the town and the surrounding landscape. This was fine by me—many pieces of nonfiction deal with the landscape's effect on a person. Surely enough, during a panel discussion later in the weekend, Dylan scholar (and general musicologist and organizer of the Symposium) Colleen Sheehy suggested the connection between the wasted land curling around Hibbing and the apocalyptic imagery of Dylan's early music. She also intelligently posited the connection between the mine's product and how closely its success was tied to whether there was a war going on in the world. This image of war from the top down, Sheehy said, may have inspired Dylan's song "Masters of War"—which is, unfortunately, as timely now as it has ever been.
So, after a buffet lunch at Zimmy's (a Dylan-centric restaurant in downtown Hibbing that served such gems as "Time Out Of Mind Combo Appetizer" and "Highway 61 Pizza" and a truly terrifying layer-cake/sandwich (ask us in person, really)),

we rode out a ways from town to learn about Hibbing's iron strip mine.
The mine, the largest man-made hole in the world, did indeed look like a wasteland. The ground is so rich with iron that each chunk of rock torn from the ground was stained red—even the decorative rock lining the sidewalks of the mine observatory was red. Adding to the wasteland-esque scenery was the sharp angles of all the rock. None of it had been exposed for probably more than a century—not nearly enough time for wind and snow to soften jagged edges.

The mine, in its hey-day, was taxed by one enterprising mayor of Hibbing in the 1920s. He somehow finagled a fine deal out of the mining company: that it would be taxed not on the iron already out of the ground, but all of the iron still underneath the ground. This was, in short, a few (hundred) truckloads of money.

Truck used in mining. Picture it full of money, driving to Hibbing. Ethan for scale.
Between this tax and the bribery required to move the original town of Hibbing from the patch of iron it had its feet in, the mine built for the town—among other things—a four-million dollar school. Today's equivalent would be about 45 million dollars (if my internet inflation adjustor does not lie—what?—the internet never lies).
Part of that four-million dollar school is its auditorium. This auditorium is one of the first Dylan venues—in Dylan lore, he played the stage with his high school band, The Golden Chords. His first short concert was for a talent show, and they played a Little Richard song too hot for 1950s rural Minnesota. A teacher pulled the curtain on Dylan and his band.
The auditorium itself was gorgeous. You know how many words a picture is worth, so I'll just stop beating around the bush:


The tour was mainly focused on the town and, by extension, for me, the oddity of having a gem of a school in a town where the community's tax base (they no longer get any money from the mine) would barely cover the upkeep of the building. Of course, this was fascinating—though Ethan probably voiced all of our innermost feelings when he said that what mostly we want is to drink from the same water fountain that high-school Dylan drank from.
With the mine and the school out of the way, we went to the only other places significant to Dylan's early formative (and preformative, as it were) years: his house and the stage he played on in another talent show. Neither of these places—his house or this second stage—is immortalized in any way that would inhibit their functionality. In fact, there is no trace of Dylan on them, permanently, whatsoever. I'm not exactly surprised at this Midwestern utilitarianism that requires the every-day use of artifacts that most Dylanologists would rather keep under lock and key and Plexiglas.

Bob's childhood home had two small nods to its lineage: the CD player playing his music, and a coffee table, under whose glass top lay several different books on Dylan. While we tourists/salivating Dylan fans milled about in the living room, tracking early spring gravel into the rug, the sink ran in the kitchen—someone was washing the lunch dishes—and the present owner of the house stood, shaking hands and introducing himself.
Next, we went to the town's Memorial Hall to see the stage on which Dylan and his Golden Chords took second or third place in a different talent show. The group watched for a few minutes a group of woman were curling on the ice rink, and photographed them as if they were recording the first encounters with a newly-discovered tribe of Papua New Guineans.
Downstairs, we sat for a few minutes in a hot and stuffy, small auditorium, watching a few of our tour members jump up on the stage—the stage that looked like any other, functioning, small-town-hall stage, a place for awards, commemoration, but no commemoration of Dylan. Just meticulous care and upkeep of a stage now more than 50 years old.
The town seemed almost to willfully ignore that it produced an anomaly like Dylan—except for its once-yearly Dylan Days, a grassroots festival that celebrates the arts in northern Minnesota and the memorabilia-laden Zimmy's Café. Dylan was not just an anomaly for that town and age—he is, it seems, an anomaly of the human race altogether. While it is easy—as it was suggested by one of the symosium's panels—to see where Dylan's infamous interview-sidestepping sensibilities came from and the inspiration for songs like "Masters of War," "North Country Blues," "Girl from the North Country," and "The Ballad of Hollis Brown," it is of course inherently problematic to expect—perhaps as I did—to find his roots all in one place, to try to find his footsteps set in the cement of some sidewalk. He is as transcendent of landscape and town as his songs were—and continue to be—of their contemporaries.
The Symposium—in conjunction with the traveling museum exhibit called Bob Dylan's American Journey, 1956-1966—is called "Highway 61 Revisited: Dylan's Road from Minnesota to the World." Part of this symposium (the term "symposium" means "drinking party" in Greek; my partner-in-crime—fiction writer extraordinaire and fellow Dylanite, Ethan—to this symposium celebrated this fact by sneaking fat cans of cheap beer into a showing of Masked & Anonymous at the museum), and the major attraction for me was a bus tour to Hibbing, Minnesota, birthplace of Robert A. Zimmerman/Dylan.
Hibbing's isolation and size—at 16,509 people, it's approximately 35.656587473002 times my town's size—made me homesick. It was like taking a bus tour of the town near where I grew up to which my friends and I would travel to get our kicks—like watching those moving picture shows.
Once we got to Hibbing, we—Ethan and I—quickly found that we'd be on a tour that would have less to do with Bob and more to do with the town and the surrounding landscape. This was fine by me—many pieces of nonfiction deal with the landscape's effect on a person. Surely enough, during a panel discussion later in the weekend, Dylan scholar (and general musicologist and organizer of the Symposium) Colleen Sheehy suggested the connection between the wasted land curling around Hibbing and the apocalyptic imagery of Dylan's early music. She also intelligently posited the connection between the mine's product and how closely its success was tied to whether there was a war going on in the world. This image of war from the top down, Sheehy said, may have inspired Dylan's song "Masters of War"—which is, unfortunately, as timely now as it has ever been.
So, after a buffet lunch at Zimmy's (a Dylan-centric restaurant in downtown Hibbing that served such gems as "Time Out Of Mind Combo Appetizer" and "Highway 61 Pizza" and a truly terrifying layer-cake/sandwich (ask us in person, really)),

we rode out a ways from town to learn about Hibbing's iron strip mine.
The mine, the largest man-made hole in the world, did indeed look like a wasteland. The ground is so rich with iron that each chunk of rock torn from the ground was stained red—even the decorative rock lining the sidewalks of the mine observatory was red. Adding to the wasteland-esque scenery was the sharp angles of all the rock. None of it had been exposed for probably more than a century—not nearly enough time for wind and snow to soften jagged edges.

The mine, in its hey-day, was taxed by one enterprising mayor of Hibbing in the 1920s. He somehow finagled a fine deal out of the mining company: that it would be taxed not on the iron already out of the ground, but all of the iron still underneath the ground. This was, in short, a few (hundred) truckloads of money.

Truck used in mining. Picture it full of money, driving to Hibbing. Ethan for scale.
Between this tax and the bribery required to move the original town of Hibbing from the patch of iron it had its feet in, the mine built for the town—among other things—a four-million dollar school. Today's equivalent would be about 45 million dollars (if my internet inflation adjustor does not lie—what?—the internet never lies).
Part of that four-million dollar school is its auditorium. This auditorium is one of the first Dylan venues—in Dylan lore, he played the stage with his high school band, The Golden Chords. His first short concert was for a talent show, and they played a Little Richard song too hot for 1950s rural Minnesota. A teacher pulled the curtain on Dylan and his band.
The auditorium itself was gorgeous. You know how many words a picture is worth, so I'll just stop beating around the bush:


The tour was mainly focused on the town and, by extension, for me, the oddity of having a gem of a school in a town where the community's tax base (they no longer get any money from the mine) would barely cover the upkeep of the building. Of course, this was fascinating—though Ethan probably voiced all of our innermost feelings when he said that what mostly we want is to drink from the same water fountain that high-school Dylan drank from.
With the mine and the school out of the way, we went to the only other places significant to Dylan's early formative (and preformative, as it were) years: his house and the stage he played on in another talent show. Neither of these places—his house or this second stage—is immortalized in any way that would inhibit their functionality. In fact, there is no trace of Dylan on them, permanently, whatsoever. I'm not exactly surprised at this Midwestern utilitarianism that requires the every-day use of artifacts that most Dylanologists would rather keep under lock and key and Plexiglas.

Bob's childhood home had two small nods to its lineage: the CD player playing his music, and a coffee table, under whose glass top lay several different books on Dylan. While we tourists/salivating Dylan fans milled about in the living room, tracking early spring gravel into the rug, the sink ran in the kitchen—someone was washing the lunch dishes—and the present owner of the house stood, shaking hands and introducing himself.
Next, we went to the town's Memorial Hall to see the stage on which Dylan and his Golden Chords took second or third place in a different talent show. The group watched for a few minutes a group of woman were curling on the ice rink, and photographed them as if they were recording the first encounters with a newly-discovered tribe of Papua New Guineans.
Downstairs, we sat for a few minutes in a hot and stuffy, small auditorium, watching a few of our tour members jump up on the stage—the stage that looked like any other, functioning, small-town-hall stage, a place for awards, commemoration, but no commemoration of Dylan. Just meticulous care and upkeep of a stage now more than 50 years old.
The town seemed almost to willfully ignore that it produced an anomaly like Dylan—except for its once-yearly Dylan Days, a grassroots festival that celebrates the arts in northern Minnesota and the memorabilia-laden Zimmy's Café. Dylan was not just an anomaly for that town and age—he is, it seems, an anomaly of the human race altogether. While it is easy—as it was suggested by one of the symosium's panels—to see where Dylan's infamous interview-sidestepping sensibilities came from and the inspiration for songs like "Masters of War," "North Country Blues," "Girl from the North Country," and "The Ballad of Hollis Brown," it is of course inherently problematic to expect—perhaps as I did—to find his roots all in one place, to try to find his footsteps set in the cement of some sidewalk. He is as transcendent of landscape and town as his songs were—and continue to be—of their contemporaries.
Labels: Awesomeness, Bob Dylan, Hibbing, Minnesota, really long posts






